From Riches to Rags

Ahhhhh... Life in Rittenhouse Square...

Nestled within the fortress-like walls of highrise apartment buildings, hotels and office towers lies a tranquil little oasis in the heart of Center City Philadelphia's upscale shopping district of Walnut Street. Rittenhouse Square is one of William Penn's original parks planned into his original design of the gridlike layout of Philadelphia. And it's the only one that has any life to it.

On a spring day, all you would have to do is walk from one end of the square city block to the other and you can witness a wide array of people and happenings, from the homeless begging for money to college kids all gathered in a circle playing hacky sac, to nanny's keeping watch over their wealthy employer's children as they play on the goat statue (apparently an age-old playtoy for the tykes of the area). The Rittenhouse Hotel, along the western edge of the square, is said to be the place for mega-stars of all types while in town either on tour or filming a movie. Art shows, evening concerts and once, during the millennium celebration, a ground level fireworks display all take place throughout the year in this tiny little hamlet of formal Victorian gardens and towering trees. Dogs playfully splash about in the reflecting pool as artists (both professional and students from the nearby University of the Arts) choose the perfect location on the expansive well manicured lawns.

Rittenhouse Square is definitely a place to see and be seen, whether you're sitting back catching some afternoon rays while on your lunchbreak or meeting friends in one of the several trendy bars and restaurants that border the park. Two of the most popular dining spots on the square are Rouge and Devon, both located side by side on 18th Street along the eastern edge of the square. On any given night, you can hear the constant sounds of chatter, music and laughter as you eye the Lamborghinis, Hummers, and other pretentious cars pulling up to pick up passengers or drop them off. Outdoor diners sit under the warmth of propane heated lamps on cool nights or the canvas canopies providing shade on summer afternoons. All while sipping expensive wine or nibbling on overpriced entrees.

Yes, Rittenhouse Square is an experience in itself. As much a feeling of New York life as Philadelphia is willing to give. Feed squirrels, read a book or simply lie out on the grass and take a nap, there's always something happening and, even if you aren't an official resident of the very elite neighborhood, you can always feel like part of the rich snobs who live in the the million dollar apartments that overlook the park just by simply hanging out and taking everything in. You feel like one of the rich folk.... that is until you reach the alley...

They say life can change in the blink of an eye. Apparently so can your surroundings.

Separating the two hip restaurants, Rouge and Devon, is Chancellor Street which, in effect, is actually nothing more than a small alley connecting 18th and 17th Streets. From the posh high rise apartments and overpriced eateries, turning onto Chancellor Street, you suddenly find yourself walking around dumpsters, past loading docks and dodging scurrying rats. It's a street that even Jack the Ripper would think twice about walking down. Even at high noon the alleyway is darkened by the shadows of the two towering apartment buildings that border it. The only human activity you would find while walking down this particular street would be the cars pulling in and out of the parking garage midway down the block or the gangs of short foreign cooks, dishwashers and waiters who hang outside of the kitchen entrances of Rouge and Devon, smoking cigarettes and battling for control of a conversation about which you have no clue. The entire street is paved with what seems to be years of leaking transmission fluid, giving a surreal fluid-like kaleidoscope of changing patterns and colors, while becoming almost treacherous underfoot whenever the lightest rain falls. It's always an odd sight to see an older couple on their way back from the theater or a group of young women dressed in outfits leaving little to the imagination, the sounds of their high heeled shoes clicking against the blacktop and bouncing off the brick walls as they make their way to one of the many nightspots within walking distance.

Further down the narrow street, across from the trash bins of the once prestigious Warwick Hotel, you come upon the only actual business who's address is on that block: The Post Bar. A world away from the Rittenhouse Square lifestyle, The Post is one of Philadelphia's oldest gay bars. In fact, many say that The Last Supper was actually held at the post and some of the patrons who still frequent the establishment can be seen in the now famous painting.

So, this is the beginning of, what I hope to be, a long and probably very winded description of my Life in a Nuthouse (aka: The Post Bar). Stay tuned for the next leg of this saga, probably titled "Within the Gates of Hell". If you have any suggestions or feedback, please feel free to drop me a line!